The Disappearance of Hong Kong’s Local Soy Restaurants

Written by Karrie Lam

As brand names such as the Impossible Burger grow to become a family name, beloved local soy-based restaurants [ 貴記（guì jì）and 公和荳品廠 (gōng hé dòu pǐn chǎng) ] vanish simultaneously, disappearing with it the art of creating soy-products in Hong Kong.

Gentrification undoubtedly contributes to the closure of these humble restaurants, but the primary factor is the philosophy they have fervently sustained - “authentic products, honest pricing and reliable operations” (「貨真價實、誠信經營」). With the hopes of serving the public quality products for friendly prices, restaurants have operated with minimal profit. At the same time, this idealistic philosophy has limited their potential. Failing to recognise the shifting market demand for soy products, these restaurants missed the opportunity to capitalise on customers’ cravings for healthy, soy-substitutes for meat products. Whether adapting to the times would have detracted from these restaurants’ local spark will remain an unknown to ponder over.

Indeed, some owners and sifu-s (師傅) of these soy restaurants admitted to have joined the industry simply to make ends meet, among other reasons that stray far away from the preservation of culture. Regardless and perhaps in spite of that, they have developed a strong penchant for perfection in every step of the creation process - from selecting the beans to soaking and grinding them, to boiling the soy milk, to pressing the tofu. Even though their efforts easily go unnoticed, these owners and sifu-s have quietly upheld a corner of culture that makes our city unique.

Whether the local soy industry sustains, relies not only on producers but also on customers like us who have to decide what is worth us voting with our dollar for.

Click Below for Further Reading!

豆腐店之死（上）：豆品本質卑微 也許是本地豆品業步向式微的致命傷？

豆腐店之死（下）：石磨、油渣爐與生鐵鍋 豆品老店鐵三角的大限將至

Soy sauce makers affected by impending Hong Kong housing projects in Fanling North and Kwu Tung North, as tradition bows to development

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